I have a dream that has become a goal over the past couple of years.
If that dish had been served in a contemporary tasting-menu restaurant, it would have consisted of three shrimps, a dollop of "dirty rice" in quotation marks, and a slice of andouille as perfectly rectangular as a township in Nebraska.
Everybody has dreams, wishes, and goals, and sooner or later, they get closer and closer to accomplishing them.
All the elements — whether sepia or marrow or white truffles or black truffles or — are caught up in a whirl of flavor, a single unifying force that twines its way even around each tine, and delivers its cumulative power in a single forkful. But the universal abandonment of actual cooking has had the result of breaking down the walls between one kind of restaurant and the next; gastrocrats can go pretty much anywhere and eat pretty much the same thing.
This was also the case a century ago, when rich people ate the same truffles and foie gras in the same hotel dining rooms. I understand that it's easier to fire three or four precious elements, each in their own pan, .
This was the moment when I knew I wanted to become a photographer.
Every time I look back at that photograph, I can vividly remember the exact sensation I once had.I know that people like me have been complaining about skimpy portions and newfangled methods since the advent of nouvelle cuisine fifty years ago. I often wonder to myself why I like Italian food so much.Why am I happier with a bowl of spaghetti than I am with a duo of squab with glazed parsley root and three and a half grams of kimchi? It's because pasta is one of the last bastions of melded flavors. Every chef does it everywhere, at every service, more or less.Finally, some third ingredient, and possibly a fourth, is added on top, with or without tweezers.These items were either cooked or cured or grown separately, and they are put on the plate separately, and when I eat them, I eat them separately, unless I manage to spear two or three of them on the same fork tine.The same goes for pot-au-feu and Brunswick stew and and cassoulet.Somebody might point out that those are all long-braised winter dishes, but guess what? And if you go out tonight to your favorite new restaurant for some "seasonal" cooking, your main course will consist of three dominoes of duck with a little dollop of emulsion, some lovage, and five sea beans next to them. More relevant, they all pretty much look the same, too. They use better ingredients than ever did before; and they take more care than ever before. Here are the four dishes: The restaurants are, in order: Aska (Brooklyn), Ink (L. But you would never know they came from different establishments based on the descriptions (somewhat understandable, as contemporary menu language is so cryptic and laconic that it's barely more than a list of ingredients).I remember traveling through Africa as a young girl.I always had my camera dangling from my neck, snapping photos quickly.